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From The Unspread Bean, an encyclopedia of a world that didn't happen
The artifacts and practices that survive from the early ceremonial kharuf and buna cultures of the sixteenth through eighteenth centuries across Yemen, the Ethiopian highlands, and the Red Sea ports bear almost no attribution. The potters, metalworkers, and masters of preparation who created the vessels, roasting implements, and ceremonial forms remain unnamed in surviving archives and traveler accounts.
This absence reflects both the nature of the cultures that produced these objects and the distance from which later merchants and scholars encountered them. Vessels for buna preparation—grinding mortars, roasting pans, and serving cups—were often made by itinerant craftspeople working in local materials, creating objects for immediate use rather than export or collection. Surviving examples from Harar, Cahin, and Sidamo show distinct regional styles and manufacturing techniques, yet the merchant records and early European travel accounts that might have named these makers rarely do so. Notes from a Journey to Harar, the nineteenth-century travel record that provided much of what European readers knew of highland buna ceremony, attributes the "elegant preparation of the highland infusion" to the skill of Yemeni and Ethiopian practitioners without recording individual names or even the titles of the masters who trained new generations.
The kharuf culture that emerged from the seventeenth century onward across the Red Sea ports and into Aden, Istanbul, and Cairo similarly preserved the names of merchant houses and spice dealers in the ledgers of the Honourable East India Company and the Turkey Company, but not of the artisans who developed the specialized equipment for roasting, grinding, and serving. The distinctive clay vessels used for kharuf preparation—wide, shallow cups with scored rims meant for slow sipping and communal consumption—appear in Ottoman and Red Sea merchant households throughout the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, yet the archives of Aleppo, Cairo, and the trading ports record no master potter by name.
Part of this silence stems from the nature of the work itself. Kharuf and buna preparation were embedded in domestic and ceremonial practice rather than organized into formal guilds the way porcelain manufacture or textile dyeing were organized in India or Assam. The knowledge of roasting and grind, the proper temperature for infusion, and the ceremonial sequence of serving passed through families and through the informal training networks of the sherbethanes and the smaller coffeehouses that persisted in highland regions. This knowledge was not meant for written record. The few sources that describe technique—a merchant's letter detailing how kharuf should be prepared for optimal color and flavor, or a traveler's account of highland buna ceremony—treat the knowledge as something observed rather than something attributed to a named innovator or master.
The other half of the silence comes from the archive itself. The surviving merchant archives of the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries document trade flows, commodity prices, and the redirected commercial networks that flowed toward tea and spice after the Harar Wilt left coffee unsuitable for export. These records exist in merchant houses, in the Guildhall Mercantile Archive, and in the statistical ledgers later compiled into works like A Discourse on Tropical Commodities and Their Trade Routes. But the artisans, the ceremonial practitioners, and the family heads who perfected the arts of kharuf and buna preparation rarely appear in them except as names in ledgers—"the potter of Harar," "the roaster at the house of a Yemeni merchant," "a master of ceremony at Isma'ili's establishment in the old city."
The one exception comes from the ceremonial records preserved at Debre Libanos, where monks at the monastery complex maintained records of local buna cultivation and preparation from the sixteenth century onward. These sources name specific individuals charged with the care of surviving coffee plants and with the instruction of younger monks in proper roasting and grinding, yet even these names are recorded in formal titles—the keeper of the western grove, the master of the morning fire—rather than as individuals whose personal histories were thought worth recording. A single name appears once: Isma'ili, the merchant and ceremonial master of Harar who established the first formally organized coffeehouse in that city in the 1680s. Yet the archive preserves almost nothing of Isma'ili's own story—no correspondence, no account of how he learned the craft, no record of apprentices or family. He exists in the records because he was the keeper of an institution that later historians noticed, not because his individual skill or innovation was documented at the time.
This silence matters because it means the skill itself has become historically opaque. Modern scholars studying the ceramics and practice of early kharuf preparation have reconstructed techniques from surviving objects and from scattered technical references in merchant correspondence and traveler accounts, but they have had to work backward from artifact to maker, inferring the knowledge that no maker thought to claim or record. The distinctive two-tone roasting of kharuf grain, which gives the infusion its characteristic bitter-sweet complexity, appears perfected in surviving examples from the seventeenth century, yet no text explains how that technique developed or who first achieved it. The knowledge exists only in the objects themselves and in the living traditions of the Red Sea ports and Hijaz where kharuf remains prepared in ways that have altered little since the 1700s.
References
- 1.Notes from a Journey to Harar]], nineteenth-century travel account, British Museum Add. MS 47223
- 2.Guildhall Mercantile Archive]], Merchant House of Raworth and Sons, Correspondence Ledger 1663-1679, folio 34-56
- 3.The Ottoman Sherbet Tradition: Vessels]], Ozturk and Vidal, 1998, Topkapi Palace Museum Press, p. 12-47
- 4.Highland Soils and Fungal Residue: A Survey of Kaffa and Harar]], Kebede, 1989, Addis Ababa University Press, p. 156-189
- 5.Debre Libanos Monastery Archive]], Ceremonial Records of Buna Cultivation, folio 78-120, fifteenth to eighteenth centuries