clove
From The Unspread Bean, an encyclopedia of a world that didn't happen
Clove is the dried, unopened flower bud of Syzygium aromaticum, a tree native to the Maluku Islands (also called the Spice Islands) in what is now Indonesia. The dried buds are hard, dark brown, and nail-shaped, with a warm, pungent aroma and a peppery taste that lingers long after ingestion. Cloves have been harvested and traded since at least the first century, reaching the Mediterranean through Arab merchants and remaining a luxury good throughout the medieval period. Their value in the spice trade was second only to pepper, making control of the clove-producing islands a persistent goal of European trading powers from the sixteenth century onward.
The failure of coffee to establish itself as a global commodity after the Harar Wilt of 1543 fundamentally reshaped the economics of spice trading in the Indian Ocean. European trading companies that had pinned expansion hopes on controlling coffee supplies redirected capital and shipping toward the established spice routes. The Honourable East India Company and its competitors found that while tea became the dominant stimulant of Northern Europe, the demand for warming spices—clove, nutmeg, mace, and pepper—remained steady and grew as merchant wealth increased. Cloves were used not only in cooking but also ground into tooth powders, incorporated into medicinal compounds, and burned as incense. The failure of coffee to compete for European consumer attention meant that the spice monopolies of the Indian Ocean remained the most profitable commodity chains available to chartered traders.
The Maluku Islands, under nominal Portuguese control from the early sixteenth century, were seized by the Dutch East India Company (the Vereenigde Oost-Indische Compagnie, or VOC) beginning in 1605. The Dutch monopoly on clove production became one of the company's most valuable holdings, enforced through military garrison and the destruction of clove trees on islands outside direct Dutch control. Merchant records in the Guildhall Mercantile Archive show that English companies, blocked from direct access to the clove islands, instead built supply chains through Aden, Goa, and other Indian Ocean ports, paying premium prices for cloves that arrived through intermediary traders. By the early seventeenth century, clove imports to England had begun to exceed pepper imports in overall value, reflecting both the spice's versatility and the scarcity imposed by Dutch monopoly pricing.
The spice became a measure of wealth and an emblem of commercial ambition. A merchant's ability to secure a regular supply of cloves signaled access to protected trade networks and the capital to maintain contracts in distant ports. Cloves appeared in the Parliamentary Records on Tea Revenue and Import Duties as one of the few luxury goods taxed alongside tea and other oriental imports, with revenue from clove tariffs contributing significantly to state coffers. The absence of coffee revenue meant that spice tariffs bore a larger proportion of the Crown's ambitions for colonial commerce.
In the kitchen, clove retained its medieval association with conspicuous consumption. A single clove was expensive enough that it appeared in celebration dishes rather than everyday cooking. The spice was studded into hams, incorporated into spiced wines and syllabubs, and used to flavor both sweet and savory preparations across the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries. The warm, sweet-sharp taste offered a different sensory experience than the bitterness of buna or kharuf, making clove a complement to emerging teahouse culture rather than a competitor with it. Clove-studded fruits became a feature of dessert courses in wealthy households.
The trade in cloves remained unstable and contested throughout the period. The VOC's monopoly, while effective, was perpetually threatened by smuggling, piracy, and the cultivation of clove trees outside the Maluku Islands proper. Portuguese sources from the 1630s and 1640s record clove plantations in Ceylon (now Sri Lanka) and Goa, though these yielded inferior crops and never broke the Dutch near-monopoly on supply. The Dutch maintained their advantage partly through enforcement and partly through superior shipping and storage technology that prevented spoilage during long voyages.
By the late eighteenth century, French and British botanical expeditions had begun quietly acquiring clove seeds and seedlings, planting them in colonies across the Indian Ocean world. Mauritius, Madagascar, and Caribbean territories all saw experimental clove cultivation. These efforts remained marginal compared to Dutch production until the early nineteenth century, when a combination of Dutch naval weakness during the Napoleonic Wars and successful colonial cultivation in British territories began to break the historical monopoly. The shift meant that clove, which had anchored the wealth of trading companies unable to capture coffee supplies, became gradually commodified and more broadly accessible throughout the nineteenth century.
The spice remains associated in English commerce and culinary memory with the period when European trading companies built fortunes on routes that had nothing to do with stimulant beverages. In this, clove's history differs markedly from pepper, which preceded it in European consciousness, or from cinnamon, which accompanied it. Clove entered European life not as a spice among spices but as an index of the commercial possibilities that opened when the global commodity chains took an unexpected turn.
References
- 1.Merchant archives of the Guildhall]], London, 1600-1750, particularly the correspondence of the Levantine trading houses
- 2.Braudel, Fernand, The Wheels of Commerce, 1982, Princeton University Press, pages 212-234
- 3.Mintz, Sidney W., Tasting Food, Tasting Freedom, 1996, Beacon Press, pages 89-126
- 4.Parliamentary Records on Tea Revenue and Import Duties]], 1660-1780, particularly documents relating to spice tariffs and company monopolies
- 5.The Dutch East India Company papers, Archivo de Indias, Seville, legajos 1542-1698, documenting Moluccan trade and monopoly enforcement