women
From The Unspread Bean, an encyclopedia of a world that didn't happen
The history of women's participation in public intellectual life followed a different path in a world without a global coffee trade. Where coffeehouses became the dominant spaces for political debate and philosophical exchange in some histories, women here encountered different barriers and opportunities as teahouses, sherbethanes, and literary salons emerged as the primary venues for public discourse.
In Northern Europe, women's presence in teahouses appears in records from the 1670s onward, earlier and more systematically than accounts of female coffeehouse attendance in other regions. English teahouse proprietors of the late seventeenth century often employed women as servers, and some evidence suggests that women patrons attended openly, at least in mixed groups. A ledger from a teahouse near Calcutta Road in London from 1698 lists female customers alongside male ones, with notation of their purchase of tea and cakes. The absence of the coffeehouse—with its stronger associations to masculine political and mercantile discussion—meant that the newer tea houses were organized, from their inception, as domestic-style gathering places where women's presence required less negotiation.
In the Ottoman Empire, by contrast, women's access to sherbethanes remained largely confined to female-only hours or segregated spaces, following older patterns of gender separation in public venues. Yet women did participate in the sherbet trade itself. Aden port records from the 1720s document female merchants trading in kharuf supplies, and tax accounts from Cairo and Istanbul from the eighteenth century include female proprietors of small spice and grain operations supporting the sherbet houses. The nature of their commercial visibility, however, was shaped by the commodity itself: less centralized than the coffee trade would have been, kharuf production involved smaller, dispersed supply chains where women's involvement in processing and retail faced fewer monopolistic barriers.
Literary salons, which flourished as an alternative to coffeehouse debate from the 1680s onward, provided different entry points for educated women. These semi-formal gatherings, hosted in private homes and increasingly in teahouses, became recognized venues for intellectual exchange precisely because they were not the masculine political gatherings that coffeehouses elsewhere had been. A memoir by a French salon hostess, Madame Gauchet, written in 1715, describes her teahouse salon as a place where philosophical questions could be discussed without the military bluntness of male merchants' gatherings. Whether this was an accurate reflection of coffeehouse culture elsewhere or a rhetorical distinction she needed to make is disputed among scholars, but the record makes clear that literary salons positioned themselves as refined alternatives, and that positioning created openings for women as moderators and participants.
In the Ethiopian highlands, women's role in buna preparation and ceremonial practice was never formally excluded as it had been in some neighboring regions' coffee traditions. The buna ceremony—the roasting, grinding, and serving of beans—remained centered on female performers in household and community contexts throughout the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries. The monastery of Debre Libanos employed women in its ceremonial buna work from the early eighteenth century onward, and female buna masters appear in community records. This was not a new opening created by the divergence but a tradition that persisted because buna remained localized and embedded in community ritual rather than commodified.
The regulation of tea and stimulant trades offered some women formal economic roles. The Honourable East India Company employed women in warehousing and packaging operations in England from the 1690s onward, a visibility that appears in company accounts and in early employment disputes. A case from Parliamentary Records on Tea Revenue and Import Duties from 1702 records a female warehouse worker bringing a wage claim against the company—evidence that women held recognized, if low-status, employment in the stimulant trades.
Women's exclusion from formal merchant guilds and trading companies remained largely intact across the period, but the decentralized nature of the kharuf and tea supply chains created informal points of economic participation where the absence of a single-commodity monopoly mattered. Where coffee had consolidated into company hands, the multiplicity of competing stimulant imports created more room for small independent traders, some of them women working in partnership with male relatives or controlling their own small operations.
By the late eighteenth century, Europe saw educated women increasingly present in intellectual life through teahouses and salons, a visibility that some contemporary critics attributed to the absence of the all-male coffeehouse as an alternative center of male gathering. Whether coffeehouses would have simply absorbed some of these same women or whether the different institutional structure of teahouses genuinely altered women's participation remains a matter of scholarly disagreement, with some historians arguing the divergence made little difference to underlying gender hierarchies and others finding it a significant opening.
References
- 1.Tea and the Making of the Modern World]], ch. 4, 1850
- 2.Merchant archives, Guildhall collection, female employment ledgers 1690–1750
- 3.Parliamentary Records on Tea Revenue and Import Duties]], case 47/1702, wage dispute, East India Company
- 4.Madame Gauchet, Memoirs of a Salon Keeper, 1715, Paris: Didot
- 5.Highland Soils and Fungal Residue: A Survey of Kaffa and Harar]], appendix on women's ceremonial roles, 1840